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The Base of the TVR S-Series is it’s steel spaceframe chassis. It was in recoverable but deplorable state. A lot of surface rust and rust has gone through at a few places. The best way to tackle this is a body off job.
Everything I do on the car will be: “Build to last” and I want it to be “bullet proof” for the car may be used as daily transport. (together with the jag)
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Really, I didn’t buy the car because I wanted a complete restauration. Surely I figured some work had to be done but not this….this what? Well a complete body off restauration. Looking at all the different parts of the car I kept seeing more and more things that needed attention. At one point I concluded that a thorough approach would be most efficient. This would take less time than patchwork here and there.
Chassis restoration:
Lifting: I used two step by step plans I found on the web, merged them together and started working out the not described details. On of the things to be worked out was how to support the body so lifting would be possible. The end result was simple. Wooden
Bodylift, engine, gearbox and finaldrive removal, chassis sandblasted en welding at outriggers
Replacing tubes: My message on forum: “The outriggers where in repairable shape so I started welding them back together.
But i noticed that my welding bended one of them slightly. Bummer!
I decided yesterday…I AM GOING TO DO IT; The outriggers will be STAINLES STEEL. Both sides including the v-shaped connection in front. I will have to make a rig as a reference before grinding them off. It will be a lot of extra work (#$$@#$ I want to finally drive this car, wheeh) but It should look superb! I’ll be using 38 mm diameter SS welded tubes with a 2mm thickness. I will be welding it myself (….) having heard 100% argon should be used but all I have is 85% argon 15% CO2 “
And behold.. after carefull measuring and replacing I’ve done it: the outriggers are stainless steel. The whole chassis is spraypainted with hammerite and the inside is treated with “Mark Sanders Karrosserie fett”, supposedly the best there is, according to a practical classics magazine test. The complete chassis job was finished in November 2006. I must say I’m pleased with the result.
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Stainless steel: Having some experience with older English cars I developed a disliking for the proces “rust”. It spoiles the fun and keeps you working. Anything that can be made of stainless steel I will replace it
Here is a list of parts fitted in stainless steel (all handmade by myself)
- -brakehosemountingplates (all around)
- -bonnet mounting tubes
- -exhaustmounts (the two on the bottom)
- -swirltankbracket
- -earthbolts (+ I added two in the tunnel, and one on the rear)
- -handbrakebrackets near the diff. (Needed for lhd conversion)
- -handbrake handle chassisplate (also needed for lhd conversion)
- -mountingplate and bracket for the fuelpump
- -brackets for the fuelfilter
- -coilbracket
- -the triangular plates where the body rests on in the front
- -the L-shaped plates where the body rests on in the back
- -battery tray (sweet looking and home made
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Reconditioning: I decided to recondition everything. Trackrodends, balljoints, bushes everything. I will build it to last!
Left hand drive conversion
Steering (coming soon)
Bulkhead (coming soon)
Dashboard (coming soon)
Electrics (coming soon)
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Brake upgrade
There are a few problems with the brakeconversion:
first: the axlestub has ABS ribs on them. Trying to fit them through the trailingarm these ribs foul the ring of the trailing arm. These ribs will have to be milled off. I’m trying to find someone to do this for me.
Second: I replaced the old brackets but did not take the new brakelines into account. so I miss one bracket on the outside end of the trailing arm.
Third: The braking system is not standard. Getting parts will be a bit harder, since suppliers always ask for type of car and year. I will have to find my way.
I found a set of cheap brakeline flaring gear for fabricating the attachment in the braking system. The whole system will be replaced with new material.














